THANKSGIVING IN THE CITY | 1, 2, 3

RED CURRANT-GLAZED TURKEY WITH SAGE AND RED CURRANT GRAVY A 12- to 14-pound turkey (reserving neck and giblets for making stock, but excluding liver) Kitchen string 1/2 cup red currant jelly FOR GRAVY Pan juices reserved from turkey 4 cups turkey giblet stock (recipe follows) plus additional for thinning gravy 1/4 cup red currant jelly 3 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves 3 tablespoons water 3 tablespoons cornstarch GARNISH Fresh sage leaves Preheat oven to 350°F.

Rinse turkey inside and out and pat dry. Fold neck skin under body and fasten with a small skewer. If desired, secure wings to body with small skewers. Transfer turkey to a rack set in a flame-proof roasting pan and season with salt and pepper. Loosely tie drumsticks together with kitchen string. Roast turkey in middle of oven 2 1/2 hours.

Brush turkey all over with jelly and roast 45 minutes more, or until a meat thermometer inserted in fleshy part of an inner thigh registers 175°F and juices run clear when thigh is pierced. Transfer turkey to a heated platter and reserve juices in pan. Remove skewers and discard string. Let turkey stand 30 minutes.

MAKE GRAVY WHILE TURKEY IS STANDING: Skim fat from reserved juices in pan. Add 4 cups stock and deglaze pan over moderately high heat, scraping up brown bits. Add jelly and bring to a boil, whisking until jelly is dissolved. Season gravy with salt and pepper and pour through a sieve into a saucepan. Stir in sage and bring sauce to a boil.

In a small bowl whisk together water and cornstarch and add to gravy, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Boil gravy, whisking constantly, 5 minutes. If necessary, whisk in additional stock to thin gravy to desired consistency and season with salt and pepper. Transfer gravy to a heated sauceboat.

Garnish turkey with sage leaves and serve with gravy.

Serves 8.

TURKEY GIBLET STOCK

1 celery rib
1 carrot
1 onion
5 cups chicken broth
6 cups water
Reserved neck and giblets (excluding liver) from a 12- to 14-pound turkey
1 bay leaf
9 sprigs mixed fresh herbs such as thyme, sage, rosemary and/or marjoram

Coarsely chop celery and carrot and quarter onion. In a large deep saucepan bring broth and water to a boil with celery, carrot, onion, and neck and giblets, skimming froth. Add bay leaf and fresh herbs and cook, uncovered, at a bare simmer 2 hours, or until liquid is reduced to about 6 cups. Pour stock through a fine sieve into a bowl. Stock may be made 2 days and cooled completely, uncovered, before being chilled or frozen in an airtight container.

Makes about 6 cups.

WHEAT-BERRY STUFFING WITH PEARL ONIONS

It will take about 45 minutes to peel the pearl onions for this recipe. If you're strapped for time, you can substitute 1 1/2 pounds of thawed frozen peal onions, which won't need to be blanched.

12 slices country-style white bread
2 cups wheat berries
2 pounds pearl onions
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
1 cup packed fresh flat-leafed parsley leaves
1 1/2 cups chicken broth

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Cut bread into 1/2-inch pieces and in a large shallow baking pan toast in one layer in middle of oven until just dry, about 15 minutes. Croutons may be made 1 day ahead and kept, covered, at room temperature.

In a 4-quart kettle three fourths full of boiling water (do not salt water) cook wheat berries, uncovered, until tender, about 1 hour, and drain in a large sieve. Transfer wheat berries to a large shallow baking dish.

While wheat berries are cooking, in a large saucepan of boiling water blanch onions 3 minutes. Drain onions and when cool enough to handle, peel. In a large skillet melt butter over moderately high heat and sauté onions, stirring occasionally, until golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Chop parsley and add with onions to wheat berries. Wheat-berry mixture may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring mixture to room temperature before proceeding.

Add croutons and broth to wheat-berry mixture and toss to combine well. Bake stuffing in middle of oven, uncovered, 30 minutes, or until top is slightly crisp.

Makes about 12 cups, serving 8 generously.

CRANBERRY APRICOT COMPOTE

1 cup dried apricots (about 6 ounces)
Two 12-ounce bags fresh or unthawed frozen cranberries (about 7 cups total)
1 cup water
1 cup sugar, or to taste
3 large shallots

Quarter apricots and pick over cranberries. In a 3-quart saucepan bring water, sugar, and apricots to a boil and simmer, stirring until sugar is dissolved, 5 minutes. Add cranberries and simmer until berries have burst, about 5 minutes.

Finely chop shallots and stir into compote. Remove pan from heat and cool compote completely. Compote may be made 2 days ahead and chilled, covered.

Makes about 4 cups.

Bake squash in middle of oven 30 minutes. Remove pan from oven and scatter chestnuts over squash. Re-cover pan with foil and roast squash and chestnuts 30 minutes, or until squash is tender. Squash and chestnuts may be made up to this point 6 hours ahead and kept, covered, at room temperature.

Remove foil from pan and bake squash and chestnuts 20 minutes more. With a slotted spoon transfer squash and chestnuts to a serving dish. Stir sauce, scraping up brown-sugar drippings, and spoon over squash and chestnuts.

Serves 8.

STEAMED SAVOY CABBAGE AND MUSTARD GREENS WITH BACON

3/4 pound sliced bacon
1 large head Savoy cabbage (about 2 pounds)
2 bunches mustard greens (about 2 1/2 pounds total)
6 large garlic cloves
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Cut bacon into 1/2-inch pieces and in a large heavy skillet cook over moderate heat, stirring, until crisp and golden. With a slotted spoon transfer bacon to paper towels to drain.

Thinly slice cabbage and discard coarse stems from mustard greens. In a large steamer rack set over boiling water steam cabbage, covered, until crisp-tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer cabbage to a large bowl and keep warm, covered. In steamer rack set over boiling water steam mustard greens until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add mustard greens to cabbage and keep warm, covered.

Mince garlic. In a small saucepan heat garlic, butter, and oil until butter is just melted. Drizzle butter mixture over vegetables, tossing to distribute evenly, and season with salt and pepper.

Transfer vegetables to a serving dish and serve topped with bacon.

Serves 8.

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