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How To Cook Italian
Fresh ingredients and simple techniques are key to one of the world's most loved cuisines.

 
By Giuliano Hazan with wine notes by Karen MacNeil-Fife - Cooking Light, March 2001

It's true that Italians have a passion for life, and one of life's great pleasures is good food. Take, for example, Italy's renowned food markets; the fresh local fruits, vegetables, and seafood one finds make it clear that Italian food is really all about using the freshest ingredients available and bringing out their flavors. It's a cuisine that one does not tire of easily, because it runs the gamut from rich and complex to light and simple.

Italy is made up of 20 different regions, each with its own culinary traditions. And though the country is relatively small, the difference in the food from one region to the next is extraordinary.

The cuisine in northern Italy, for example, tends to rely more on dairy products such as butter, cream, and cow's milk cheeses because the land is flatter and better suited to raising cattle. It's also one of the more affluent parts of the country, which makes for richer food with more expensive ingredients. Northern Italy produces creamy, rich cheeses such as mascarpone and Gorgonzola from Lombardy, fontina from Valle d'Aosta, and Taleggio from the Veneto. The region of Emilia-Romagna, whose capital is Bologna, is known for its homemade egg pasta and what is considered by many to be the kind of Italian cheeses. Parmigiano-Reggiano. It's also the region famous for prosciutto di Parma, as well as countless other exquisite sausages and cured meats.

In central Italy, the food becomes heartier with the wonderful bean soups of Tuscany and the savory roasted meats of Umbria and Abruzzi, where lamb, wild boar, and game can be more prevalent than pork, beef, and veal.

In southern Italy, there's more reliance on olive oil than butter, and the cheeses used are more likely to be made from sheep's milk. The further south one goes, the less affluent the population is; hence you'll find fewer fancy ingredients, a more sparing use of meat, and a greater reliance on local, seasonal foods. Sicilian and Sardinian cooking are not heavy, as is often thought. They are delicate, fragrant cuisines that emphasize the flavors of the fresh ingredients and seafood with which they are blessed.

COURSE BY COURSE

Italian cooking is healthful, and so is the Italian way of eating. A typical meal consists of several courses, none of which dominated the meal, so that portion sizes need not be as large. The first course (primo piatto) is usually a soup, pasta, or risotto. The second course (secondo piatto)  is a meat, fish, or chicken dish that's accompanied by a vegetable and followed by a salad. The meal often ends with fruit rather than a dessert (although occasionally Italians do like to indulge in something sweet).

Few cuisines have the breadth and influence of Italy's so it was no small chore to select the following recipes. They both represent the different courses of a typical meal and exemplify the essential qualities of Italian food.

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