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No-Miss Miso
This soybean paste is a classic ingredient in Japanese cooking that couples well with American ingenuity.

 
By Jean Patterson - Cooking Light, March 2001

MISO SOUP WITH ENOKI MUSHROOMS

When I worked as an English teacher in Taiwan, my cleverest class was a group of middle-aged architects. No matter what lesson plan I had in mind, my student would eventually divert the conversation to one of three topics: sumo wrestling, Jackie Chan movies, or young bachelor relatives who were eager to meet me.

Although I was able to veer my students away from these topics, one sure way to make me abandon a lesson plan was the promise of food. It took only three words to convince me: "Wo-men ching ni," meaning "Our treat."

Although the promised bachelors never materialized, the meals that did were amazing. Because my student loved Japanese food, we would often hold class in a restaurant's private tatami room, feasting on sushi, sashimi, broiled eel, and my newfound favorite: miso soup. I remember watching, transfixed, as granules of miso - soybean paste - alternately suspended themselves in the broth and then settled to the bottom again.

After I moved back to the States, I tried to duplicate the foods I'd enjoyed in Asia, especially the miso soup. With help from the roommate's mother, who had trained as a chef in her native Japan, I learned to use miso as a basic seasoning in many other Japanese dishes. As we cooked together in my kitchen, she taught me the subtle variations between different misos. I learned that light miso is sweeter, whereas red miso has a stronger, saltier flavor.

But miso isn't just for Japanese food. Used sparingly, it can add depth to dressings, marinades, and sauces. I like to swirl light miso into vegetable soup just before serving to provide an extra flavor boost. The richer red miso lends an exotic flair to fish and tofu marinades.

Whenever I whip up a steaming bowl of miso soup, I silently thank my former students for sharing their love of Japanese food with me. Who knows where I'd be today if they had gotten me hooked on sumo wrestling?

_________________________
Jean Patterson has also written for Veggie Life, the Los Angeles Times, and other publications.

MISO SOUP WITH ENOKI MUSHROOMS

Look for bonito at Asian food markets or in the ethnic section of the supermarket. It's a traditional ingredient in miso soup, but if you can't find it, it's okay to omit it - just be aware that you'll lose the seafood flavor in the broth.

6 cups boiling water
1/4 cup dried shaved bonito (dry fish flakes)
2 tablespoons yellow miso (soybean paste)
2 tablespoons red miso (soybean paste)
1/2 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
1/2 cup enoki mushrooms
4 ounces firm tofu, drained and cubed

Combine water and bonito; let stand 2 minutes. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a bowl; discard solids. Bring the liquid to a boil in a large saucepan. Add yellow and red miso and soy sauce; stir well with a whisk until smooth. Divide the enoki mushrooms and tofu evenly among 6 soup bowls, and ladle 1 cup soup into each bowl.

6 servings.

CALORIES 40 (21% from fat); FAT 0.9g (sat 0.1g); PROTEIN 2g; CARB 5.1g; FIBER 0.2g; CHOL 1mg; IRON 1mg; SODIUM 407mg; CALC 20mg.

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