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TROUT BAKED IN A SALT CRUST Don't let this title mislead you. The salt crust actually functions like a blanket that prevents steam and juices from escaping. The result is moist, flavorful fish - not an overly salty taste. The crust also captures the aromas of the ginger, garlic, and lime and forces them into the fish. Grape leaves can be found in the ethnic sections of most supermarkets. 1 (16-ounce) jar large grape leaves (about 40 leaves) 8 (1/4-inch) slices peeled fresh ginger 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 8 lime slices 4 (8-ounces) cleaned whole brook trout 6 pounds rock salt 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 2 limes) 2 teaspoons sugar 1 1/2 teaspoons fish sauce 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Drain and rinse grape leaves; set aside.

Divide ginger, garlic slices, and lime slices evenly. Place in cavity of each fish; set aside.

Cover a baking sheet or jelly-roll pan with rock salt to a depth of 1/2 inch. Arrange half of grape leaves on top of salt, leaving a 1 1/2-inch border. Place fish on top of leaves. Cover the fish with 10 leaves, tucking leaves around fish. Place remaining leaves loosely over fish. Cover fish and leaves with a 1/2-inch layer of rock salt. Bake at 350°F for 35 minutes. Remove fish from oven; let stand 10 minutes.

Combine lime juice and next 4 ingredients (lime juice through serranos). Set aside.

Cover a large work surface with newspaper. Tip baking sheet gently over newspaper to remove loose salt. Use a small spatula to gently remove fish, still in grape leaves. Remove any salt from outside of leaves; peel away leaves, and discard. Arrange fish on individual plates; serve with sauce. Sprinkle fish with cilantro.

4 servings (serving size: 1 trout and 1 tablespoon sauce).

NOTE: You can use this technique with most any fish, including fillets and steaks. If you use these cuts, place the ginger, lime slices, and garlic slices on top of the fish.

Calories 223 (24% from fat); Fat 5.9g; Protein 36.3g; Carb 4.2g; Fiber 0.2g; Chol 99mg; Iron 3.5mg; Sodium 211mg; Calcium 125mg.

BRINED CHICKEN WITH LEMON

Brining, or soaking food in a salt solution, can improve the flavor of chicken. Soaking the chicken in brine overnight allows for uniform salting and produces a very moist chicken.

2/3 cup kosher salt
1 (4- to 5-pound) roasting chicken
4 (1/8-inch-thick) slices lemon
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
4 lemon wedges
4 flat-leaf parsley sprigs
2 garlic cloves, cut in half
1 shallot, peeled and quartered

Combine 4 quarts water and salt in a Dutch oven, stirring until the salt dissolves. Remove and discard giblets and neck from chicken. Rinse chicken with cold water; pat dry. Trim excess fat. Add chicken to salt mixture; cover and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Remove chicken from brine; discard brine. Pat chicken dry with paper towels. Starting at neck cavity, loosen skin from breast and drumsticks by inserting fingers, gently pushing between skin and meat. Place the lemon slices under loosened skin. Sprinkle cavity with pepper; place the lemon wedges, parsley, garlic, and shallot into cavity. Lift wings up and over back; tuck under chicken. Place on the rack of a broiler pan. Bake at 400°F for 1 hour and 10 minutes or until thermometer registers 180°F. Discard skin.

8 servings (serving size: 3 ounces chicken).

Calories 164 (35% from fat); Fat 6.3g; Protein 24.7g; Carb 1g; Fiber 0.1g; Chol 76mg; Iron 1.1mg; Sodium 494mg; Calcium 18mg.

SPANISH TOAST Rubbing ripe tomatoes over garlic toast may seem strange. But it's a tradition in Spain, where it's common to find a plate of tomatoes and garlic on the table, waiting for the toast to arrive. The crisp toast almost melts the garlic and the tomatoes, which complement the crunchy kosher salt. Very ripe tomatoes and a hearty, dense bread work best. If firing up the grill to toast the bread seems daunting, you can broil or bake it in the oven. 8 (2-ounce) slices sourdough bread 4 garlic cloves, halved 4 small tomatoes, each cut in half crosswise (about 3/4 pound) 4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt or sea salt 1/4 teapsoon freshly ground black pepper Prepare grill. Place bread slices on grill rack; grill 2 minutes on each side or until ligthly browned. Rub 1 side of each bread slice with 1 garlic clove half and 1 tomato half (tomato pulp will rub off onto bread). Discard tomato peels. Drizzle 1/2 teaspoon olive oil over each bread slice; sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. 8 servings. Calories 168 (19% from fat); Fat 3.5g; Protein 5.5g; Carb 29.3g; Fiber 1.4g; Chol 0mg; Iron 1.6mg; Sodium 351mg; Calcium 60mg.

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