THE GREAT AMERICAN CAKE | 1, 2, 3, 4

FRESH COCONUT CAKE Sometimes seen with a lemon filling, this is one of the oldest "fancy" layer cakes and a great southern tradition. The fresh coconut makes you realize why this cake has always been special. FOR CAKE LAYERS 1 cup milk (not nonfat) 1/2 cup grated fresh coconut 2 1/2 cups sifted cake flour (not self-rising; sift before measuring) 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 stick unsalted butter, softened 1 1/2 cups sugar 5 large egg whites 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 teaspoon almond extract

FOR FROSTING
3 large egg whites
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/3 cup water
2 teaspoons light corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 teaspoon vanilla

2 1/2 cups grated fresh coconut

MAKE CAKE LAYERS:
Bring milk just to a boil in a small heavy saucepan. Remove from heat and stir in coconut. Cover and let stand 30 minutes. Purée in a blender.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 2 (9- by 2-inch) round cake pans and dust with flour, knocking out excess.

Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. Beat together butter and sugar in a large bowl with and electric mixer until light and fluffy. Beat in whites, vanilla, and almond extract until light and fluffy again, about 2 minutes. Add half of flour mixture and beat on low speed just until blended. Beat in coconut-milk mixture, then remaining flour mixture, just until blended.

Divide batter evenly between cake pans. Bake in middle of oven until golden and a tester comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Cool layers in pans on racks 5 minutes. Run a thin knife around edges of pans, then invert layers onto racks to cool completely.

MAKE FROSTING:
Heat whites, sugar, water, corn syrup, and cream of tartar in a large metal bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water, whisking, until mixture is warm and sugar is dissolved. Beat mixture, still over heat, with a handheld electric mixer on high speed until thick and fluffy, about 7 minutes. (Depending on mixer and weather, this may take longer.) Remove frosting from heat. Add vanilla and beat until cool and spreadable.

ASSEMBLE CAKE:
Brush any loose crumbs from layers and put 1 layer upside down on a serving plate. Spread with about 1 1/4 cups of frosting and sprinkle with 1/2 cup coconut. Place other layer on top, right side up. Frost top and sides of cake (you may have some frosting left over and sprinkle with remaining coconut.

Serves 8 to 10.

COOKS' NOTES: If egg safety is a problem in your area, you may want to use either pasteurized egg whites in the carton or reconstituted powdered egg whites for the frosting.

Cake may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, loosely covered. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Unsweetened whipped cream (for serving)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9- by 2-inch round cake pan and line bottom with a round of wax paper. Butter paper and dust pan with flour, knocking out excess.

MAKE BATTER:
Melt chocolate and butter in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water, whisking until smooth. Cool slightly.

Beat together eggs and sugar with an electric mixer until pale yellow, thick, and a ribbon forms when beaters are lifted, about 4 minutes with a standing mixer or 8 minutes with a handheld. Fold one fourth of egg mixture into chocolate mixture to lighten, then gently fold in remaining egg mixture.

Pour batter into cake pan and rap pan sharply on counter to eliminate air bubbles. Put cake pan in a hot water bath and place in middle of oven. Bake 45 minutes (top will be set, but a tester will not come out clean).

Remove cake from water bath and cool completely in pan on a rack. Run a thin knife around edge of cake and chill, covered, at least 4 hours and up to 12.

MAKE SAUCE:
Purée raspberries with sugar in a food processor or blender, then force through a fine sieve into a bowl. Chill until ready to serve.

REMOVE CAKE FROM PAN:
Put cake pan directly on a burner at very low heat. Move pan around on burner to warm bottom, about 30 seconds, then shake pan to loosen cake. Invert cake onto a rack. Remove wax paper and invert cake onto a serving plate.

Bring cake to room temperature. Serve with sauce and whipped cream.

Serves 10 to 12.

COOKS' NOTES: Don't despair if the cake stubbornly refuses to come out of the pan. You may need to help it along by prying it out gently with the tip of a paring knife.

This cake is better if made a day ahead. Both cake and sauce keep 2 days, covered and chilled.

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