In a large, deep skillet, bring the water and wine to a simmer. Add the salmon fillet, return to a simmer and poach over low heat until slightly rare in the center, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a platter to cool. Flake the fish with a fork.

In a large bowl, combine the mayonnaise, onion, capers, parsley, garlic, lemon juice and mustard. Gently fold in the poached and smoked salmon and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the salmon into 10 small ramekins or a bowl and serve with the Fennel Crackers.

10 servings.

MAKE AHEAD: The chopped salmon can be refrigerated overnight.

FENNEL CRACKERS

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine salt
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup whole milk
1 large egg, beaten
Kosher salt and fennel seeds, for sprinkling

In a bowl, using a fork, mix the flour with the baking powder and salt. Mash in the butter until blended. Add the milk and egg and stir until a dough begins to form. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and lightly knead it until smooth. Flatten the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 piece of dough until it is as thin as possible. Carefully transfer the dough to a large baking sheet and brush it lightly with water. Sprinkle lightly with kosher salt and fennel seeds and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the cracker is puffed, crisp and golden brown. Transfer to a rack to cool. Repeat with the remaining dough, salt and fennel seeds. Break the crackers into pieces before serving.

10 servings.

MAKE AHEAD: The crackers can be kept overnight in an airtight container.

[Food & Wine, November 2000]