HUNDRED-CORNER SHRIMP BALLS 1 1/2 lb large shrimp (30), peeled and deveined 8-oz can water chestnuts (1 cup), rinsed and finely chopped 1 large egg white, lightly beaten 3 tablespoons finely chopped chilled fresh pork fat or lard 1 1/2 tablespoons rice wine or Scotch 1 tablespoon grated peeled fresh ginger 2 tablespoons finely chopped scallion greens 2 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons cornstarch 3 cups panko (Japanese bread crumbs) About 8 cups vegetable oil Apricot dipping sauce (recipe follows)

Pulse shrimp in a food processor until finely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl, then stir in water chestnuts, egg white, pork fat, rice wine, ginger, scallion, salt, and cornstarch. Beat shrimp mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon and throw it against side of bowl until combined well and compacted. Wet your hands with cold water and form teaspoons of shrimp mixture into balls, arranging in 1 layer on a wax-paper-lined tray. Coat balls, 1 at a time, in panko, then arrange in 1 layer on another wax-paper-lined tray.

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Heat oil in a 5-quart pot until a deep-fat thermometer registers 375°F and fry balls in 4 batches, turning, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, or until golden and just cooked through. (Return oil to 375°F between batches.) Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. When all shrimp balls are fried, reheat on a rack set in a shallow baking pan in middle of oven until just hot, about 2 minutes.

Makes 80 hors d'oeuvres, serving 20.

COOKS' NOTE: Shrimp balls may be coated and fried 1 day ahead, cooled completely, then chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before reheating.

APRICOT DIPPING SAUCE

1 3/4 cups apricot jam
2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste
3 tablespoons finely chopped scallion greens
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste
Dash of Tabasco, or to taste

Melt jam in a small saucepan. Stir in remaining ingredients with salt and pepper to taste and serve warm.

Makes about 2 cups.

COOKS' NOTE: Sauce may be made 2 days ahead, cooled, then chilled, covered. Reheat sauce over low heat, stirring.

[Gourmet, February 2000]