VIN DE CERISE

Pitted ripe cherries soaked in a sweetened, fortified red wine result in a pleasant vin de maison aperitif wine that is equally good served over ice in summer or at cool room temperature in winter. The wine-soaked cherries are removed after two days and, in a triumph of recycling, they can be baked in a custardy clafouti.

1 pound sweet or sour ripe cherries
1 fifth dry red wine
1 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar
1/4 cup kirsch

Discard any blemished cherries. Stem and pit the cherries. Combine the pitted cherries, wine, and sugar in a large, stainless-steel or other nonreactive saucepan and bring the mixture to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Cook for 5 minutes.

Transfer the mixture to a hot, dry, sterilized jar or crock with a wide mouth. Add the kirsch, cover, and let stand in a cool, dark place for 2 days.