COGNAC BROWNIE BITES A rich, chocolate base topped with a thick layer of cognac-spiked chocolate ganache makes an intense after-dinner treat. The cognac can be replaced with rum, or with more heavy cream for an alcohol-free cookie. BROWNIES 4 oz (125 g) unsweetened chocolate, chopped 1/2 cup unsalted butter 1 1/4 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 eggs 3/4 cup all-purpose flour TOPPING 1/2 cup heavy cream 5 1/2 oz (170 g) semisweet chocolate, chopped 3 tablespoons cognac or other brandy

Preheat an oven to 325°F. Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch square baking pan with aluminum foil.

To make the brownies, in a heavy saucepan over low heat, combine the chocolate and butter. Stir until melted and smooth. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.

Whisk the sugar, vanilla, and salt into the chocolate mixture. Whisk in the eggs one at a time, whisking well after each addition, then continue to whisk until the mixture is velvety. Add the flour and whisk until just blended. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Bake until the top is just springy to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, about 35 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Press down on any raised edges to even, then let cool in the pan completely, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, make the topping: In a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat, bring the cream to a simmer. Remove from the heat. Add the chocolate and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the cognac or other brandy. Refrigerate until thick enough to spread, about 1 hour.

Using an icing spatula or a knife, spread the topping over the cooled brownies. Refrigerate until the topping is set, about 1 hour.

Using the foil, lift the sheet of brownies from the pan and place on a work surface. Trim the edges neatly. Cut into 36 squares, then transfer to a platter to serve. Store any leftovers well covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Makes 3 dozen brownies.

[After Dinner, Williams-Sonoma Lifestyles Series]