RED AND GREEN GRAPE CRISP FOR FILLING 6 lb seedless grapes (preferably a mix of red and green; 4 quarts) 3/4 cup granulated sugar 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 cup Cognac or other brandy 3 tablespoons cornstarch FOR TOPPING 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar 3/4 cup old-fashioned rolled oats 1 stick (1/2 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into bits 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup coarsely chopped pecans

ACCOMPANIMENT
Crème fraîche, vanilla ice cream, or lightly sweetened whipped cream

Toss grapes with sugar, lemon juice, and cinnamon in a wide 6- to 8-quart heavy pot. Bring to a boil, covered, over moderate heat, stirring occasionally. Continue to boil, covered, stirring occasionally, until grapes begin to burst, 20 to 30 minutes.

Transfer grapes with a slotted spoon to a colander set over a bowl and drain 15 minutes, then return juices in bowl to pot.

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Boil juices, uncovered, until syrupy and reduced to about 2 cups, 20 to 25 minutes.

Stir together Cognac and cornstarch until smooth and whisk into grape syrup. Boil, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Stir grapes into syrup, then spoon filling into a 3-quart shallow baking or gratin dish.

Pulse together flour, brown sugar, oats, butter, cinnamon, and salt in a food processor until mixture resembled coarse meal. Transfer to a bowl and stir in pecans.

Sprinkle topping evenly over filling and bake in middle of oven until topping is golden brown and filling is bubbling, about 20 minutes.

Serves 10 to 12.

[Gourmet, October 2000]