GETTING STARTED Here's a quick review of grilling how-to, plus some savvy tips to help you get top-notch results. GAS GRILL TUNE-UP If your gas grill has been idle for a time or if you have just attached a new gas cylinder, make sure the unit is in good working order.

• Use a spray bottle filled with soapy water to spritz joins and fittings. Look for tiny bubbles, which indicates a gas leak. If you detect a leak, do not light the grill.
• Check hoses for cracking, brittleness, and leaks. Be sure there are no sharp bands in hoses or tubings, and that they are far away from heat or hot surfaces. Install a heat shield for protection, if necessary.
• Clean the venturi tubes (the tubes leading to the burners) regularly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Keep the grill clean, making sure the tubes are not blocked. Spiders and their webs often are the cause of a block.
• Remember that the gas cylinder, which typically holds 20 pounds of propane, can leak or explode if it isn't handled properly. Follow the transport and storage procedures noted on the tank.
• Read the owner's manual to review any safety precautions that are specific to your gas grill.

Use caution if your grill was made prior to 1995; it may not have several safety features found on most newer models, such as shut-off mechanism in cake of a hose rupture or leak.

DIRECT AND INDIRECT HEAT

Direct heat works best for grilling foods that are tender, small, or thin, and can be cooked in less than 20 minutes. That includes steaks, burgers, kabobs, hot dogs and brats, boneless poultry, fish, fruits, and most vegetables.

To set up a charcoal grill for direct grilling, light the coals as recommended by the manufacturer. Evenly arrange the coals directly under the section of the grill rack where the food will be placed.

To set up a gas grill, preheat it, then adjust the gas flow settings to the desired heat level. Direct cooking on a gas grill is done with the cover down.

Cooking by indirect heat means placing the food adjacent to, rather than directly over, the coals; the grill cover must be down no matter what type of grill you're using. Indirect grilling is the choice for cooking whole birds, ribs, brisket, large roasts, whole fish, and vegetables such as squash, onions, potatoes or corn on the cob.

To set up a charcoal or wood-burning grill for indirect cooking, light the coals as recommended by the manufacturer. Use long-handle tongs to arrange glowing coals around the grill perimeter. When the coals are covered with gray ask, set a drip pan in the center of the grill, surrounded by coals, directly under the section of the grill rack where the food will be placed. If your grill is large, push the coals to one side of the grill and place the drip pan on the other side.

Indirect grilling on a gas grill takes even less preparation. Light the grill according to the manufacturer's instructions. Turn the setting to high and let the grill preheat for 10 to 15 minutes. Then reduce the heat on one burner to medium or medium-high and turn the other burner off, setting up two heat zones. Place the drip pan directly on the lava rocks, ceramic briquettes, or flavorizer bars on the burner that's turned off. Adjust the gas flow to the burner that's on to maintain the desired temperature inside the firebox. Place the food on the grill rack directly over the drip pan.

The drip pan collects fat drippings from the foods, minimizing flare-ups. It also can be used to hold water or other liquid to create steam and add flavor during long cooking periods. Some gas grills have built-in drip pans. If yours doesn't, use a disposable foil roasting pan or make one using heavy-duty foil.

When indirect grilling, resist lifting the cover to peek. Uncovering the grill allows heat to escape and can add as much as 15 minutes to the grilling time every time the lid is lifted. Let the foods cook the minimum time specified in the recipe before checking for doneness.

HOW HOT IS IT?

To test the heat level of your fire, hold your hand above the coals at cooking level and time how long you can comfortably keep it there. A hot fire (400° to 450°F) allows a 2-second hand count. The coals should be burning down and appear barely covered with gray ash.

A medium-hot fire (375° to 400°F) is considered a 3-second hand count. Coals are covered with a thin layer of gray ash.

A medium fire (350° to 375°F) equals a hand count of 4 seconds. At this point, the coals should glow through a layer of gray ash.

A low fire (300° to 350°F) is considered a 5-second count. The coals are covered with a thick layer of gray ash.

DETERMINING DONENESS

Because of variables such as wind, outside temperature, and the shape of the meat, the cooking times given in recipes are only approximate. The safest way to judge the doneness of roasts, whole birds, other large pieces of meat, and burgers is with a thermometer. Buy a stainless-steel meat thermometer with an easy-to-read dial and a shatterproof lens.

• Liquid-filled thermometers work well for roasts, whole poultry, and other thick pieces of food. These are readily available, inexpensive, and can be left in the food while it cooks.
• Instant-read thermometers check the internal temperature of food at the end of cooking, giving a reading in less than 20 seconds. They must be inserted at least 2 inches into the food. If the food has not yet reached the desired temperature, remove the thermometer and continue cooking.
• Digital thermometers give readings in 10 seconds and can be used for thin foods, but cannot be used while a food is being cooked.

When using a thermometer, insert it into the thickest part of the food, making sure it isn't touching bone, fat, or gristle. Take the meat off the grill when it has reached the minimum internal temperature. It will continue to cook for several minutes after being removed from the grill and can become overcooked if not removed promptly. For complete doneness charts, click here.

CLEANING YOUR GRILL

Simple maintenance will add years to the life of your grill.

• Check your owner's manual for specific cleaning instructions and tips.
• Wipe the inside and outside surfaces of a grill with a soft cloth and warm, soapy water. Rinse and wipe dry.
• Prevent grease buildup by wiping the inside of the lid while it's still warm with paper towels.
• For a gas grill: After every use, close the lid and turn the grill burners on high for 10 to 15 minutes. Then turn the burners off and loosen the residue from the grill rack with a brass-bristle brush. This prevents buildup, which reduces the chance of future flare-ups.
• For a charcoal grill: After every use, soak the grill rack in hot, sudsy water to loosen cooked-on food. If the rack is too large for your sink, wrap it in wet paper towels or newspaper and let it stand for about an hour. Unwrap the rack and wipe it clean with paper towels. If necessary, use a stiff scrub brush to remove burned-on food.
• The manufacturer of your grill may recommend that certain abrasive cleaners not be used on the grill rack. Look for cleaners made specifically for grills.