SPINACH, HAM AND PARMESAN SOUFFLÉ Although you can use a standard soufflé dish here, a gratin dish provides a larger surface area, making for a shallower and crustier soufflé. 6 ounces fresh spinach, thick stems discarded (4 packed cups) 1/2 cup fine fresh bread crumbs 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 1/2 cups whole milk 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 3 large egg yolks 1/4 pound thickly sliced lean ham, cut into 2-by-1/4-inch strips 5 large egg whites

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 1 1/2-inch-deep 6-cup gratin dish. In a medium skillet, cook the spinach over moderately high heat, tossing it with tongs until wilted. Transfer the spinach to a colander and let cool. Squeeze the spinach completely dry and coarsely chop it.

In a small bowl, toss the bread crumbs with 3 tablespoons of the Parmesan. Sprinkle half of the bread crumbs into the prepared gratin dish and shake to coat it evenly; pour out any excess.

In a small saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for 30 seconds. Slowly whisk in the milk until smooth and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Season with the salt and pepper and simmer over low heat, whisking, until no floury taste remains, about 3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and whisk in the egg yolks, spinach, ham and the remaining 5 tablespoons of Parmesan cheese.

In a large stainless-steel bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff. Fold one-third of the whites into the soufflé base to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whites. Scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish; sprinkle the remaining bread crumbs on top. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the soufflé is puffed and golden brown. Serve at once.

4 servings.

[Food & Wine, November 2000]