CRÊPES: TECHNIQUES

MAKING CRÊPES
STORING AND REHEATING CRÊPES
SHAPING CRÊPES
PROBLEM SOLVING

MAKING CRÊPES

For preparing crêpes, select a 6- or 7-inch French crêpe pan, an omelet pan, or a heavy preferably nonstick, skillet. A larger size, 9 or 10 inches in diameter, is also useful for some recipes. The smaller size is most often recommended in the recipes here. (The dimensions refer to the interior diameter of the pan.)

Three different tools may be used to mix the batter: a blender, a food processor, or a whisk. My favorite is a blender, because it makes a smooth batter in 5 seconds and is good for pouring. Be careful not to overprocess if you use a food processor, as the batter can become foamy. It can be difficult to achieve a smooth batter when using a whisk.

Prepare the batter at least 1 hour before cooking. For the tenderest crêpes, let the batter sit for 2 hours before cooking. The resting time allows the flour to absorb the liquid and the foam to dissipate. Cover and refrigerate the batter if it is to sit for longer than 1 hour.

Crêpe batter should be almost as thick as heavy cream. If it is too thick, thin it with a little water. If it is too thin, additional flour can be added. Different flours have different thickening properties, and moisture in the flour can vary the amount of liquid needed. Fresh herbs, such as minced garlic chives, dill, tarragon, basil, oregano, and flat-leaf parsley, or liqueurs such as rum, brandy, Calvados, and Cointreau add a delightful flavor to crêpes made for specific fillings.

Premeasure the batter for each crêpe by either using a ladle or a small 1/4-cup measure for pouring. Plan to use 2 or 3 tablespoons of batter for the 6- or 7-inch crêpes and about 1/4 cup for 9- or 10-inch crêpes. Heat the pan over medium-high heat and, once it is hot, coat the pan, and simultaneously tilt the pan in all directions so the batter quickly covers the surface of the pan. If the first crêpe has a hole or two on its surface, quickly add a few more drops of batter to fill them in. After cooking the first crêpe, adjust the heat as necessary. Stir the batter between pourings.

When the crêpe is almost dry on the top and golden brown on the edges (after about 1 minute), it is time to turn it. Use a small spatula to loosen the edge of the crêpe, then turn it over with the spatula or your fingers. Cook the crêpe on the second side, about 15 seconds longer, or until it is lightly browned underneath. Once cooked, invert the crêpe onto a plate or pie pan. Repeat with the remaining batter, stacking the crêpes. If you plan to serve them immediately, cover the pan with aluminum foil and keep them warm in a 200-degree-F oven for a few minutes.

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STORING AND REHEATING CRÊPES

If you do not plan to serve crêpes immediately, stack and package them for later use. Wrap them in plastic wrap and slip them in a self-sealing plastic bag. Crêpes can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months. It is a good idea to wrap them in the quantities desired for later serving. Thaw frozen crêpes in the refrigerator or at room temperature. (It takes just 15 minutes for a stack of 4 crêpes to thaw.) Bring them to room temperature before separating them. To reheat, wrap them in aluminum foil and reheat in a preheated 325-degree-F oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Once warm, they will separate with ease for filling.

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SHAPING CRÊPES

Crêpes may be shaped in a variety of styles, depending on the kind of filling and the way you want to present them. Before you fill them, observe which side of the crêpe looks best, and plan to place it facing outward. Generally, the most attractive side is the one that was cooked first (this is known as the face of the crêpe); the other side tends to be lighter in color and spotted. The amount of filling used will vary with each recipe and the way the crêpes are served. Generally, use 1/4 to 1/2 cup of filling for the 6-inch size, and 1/2 cup or more for the 9-inch size. The following ways to fold crêpes are popular. For baking and presentation, crêpes may be served with their rolled edges placed either up or down.

1. THE ROLL, OR FOLD-OVER: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a plate, pan, or work surface, and spoon the filling in a ribbon down the center of the crêpe. Fold over one side, almost covering the filling, then fold over the opposite side, making a neat packet with the filling showing at each end. This style is good for both entrée and dessert crêpes.

2. THE CIGARETTE: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a plate, pan, or work surface, and spoon or spread the filling along one edge. Roll up, forming a small cylinder. This style is good for appetizer crêpes.

3. THE ENVELOPE: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a plate, pan, or work surface, and spoon the filling into the center of it. Fold over both sides, then fold the bottom of the crêpe over about half of the filling. Fold the top of the crêpe down over both sides and turn over. This style encases the filling completely and is traditional for entrée crêpes.

4. THE BATON: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a plate, pan, or work surface and spoon the filling into the center of it. Fold over both sides, then roll up from the bottom of the crêpe, forming a neat, cylindrical shape. This style is good for appetizers and desserts.

5. THE HALF-MOON: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a plate, pan, or work surface. Spread or spoon the filling on half of the crêpe and fold the crêpe in half. This is useful for soufflé fillings.

6. THE SANDWICH, OR TRIANGLES: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a plate, pan, or work surface. Spread the filling entirely over its surface. Cover with a second crêpe, face-side up. Press lightly to seal. Serve whole as a first course or cut into 6 or 8 triangles for appetizers.

7. THE STACK: Place crêpes, face-side up, on a work surface. Spread the filling over a crêpe, leaving about a 1/4-inch border around the edge. Place second crêpe on top and spread filling over it. Repeat to stack and spread filling over each crêpe. Chill or bake, then cut into wedges to serve as an appetizer, first course, or entrée.

8. THE TRIANGULAR FOLD: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a work surface. Fold it in half, then fold it in half again, forming a triangle 4 layers thick. This is good for crêpes that are flamed in a sauce.

9. THE SQUARE FOLD: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a work surface and spoon the filling into the center. Fold over the 4 sides halfway toward the center, forming a square shape with an open center. This is good for large crêpes and is the typical fold for French buckwheat galettes, along with a triangular shape made by folding 3 sides over. Sometimes this folded galette is served flipped over.

10. THE CUP: Place 6-inch crêpes in greased muffin cups or custard cups, carefully arranging the top in flutes. Fill and bake for entrées.

11. THE PURSE: Place a crêpe, face-side down, on a work surface and spoon the filling in the center. Bring up the sides, forming pleats on top, and tie with a chive or green onion top. This fold is appropriate for appetizers.

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PROBLEM SOLVING

ARE THERE TOO MANY BUBBLES IN THE BATTER?
If so, the batter was beaten too long at too high a speed in the blender or food processor. Let it stand longer before baking.

DO YOUR CRÊPES HAVE A LACY PATTERN?
The batter may be too thin; mix 1 or 2 tablespoons of flour into the batter.

ARE THE EDGES OF THE CRÊPES CRISP, WITH A TENDENCY TO CRACK?
The pan is too hot; decrease the heat. Or, the batter may be too thin; whisk or blend 1 to 2 tablespoons flour into the batter.

DO SMALL HOLES APPEAR IN THE CRÊPES?
Use more batter to completely cover the pan.

DOES THE BATTER CURDLE LIKE SCRAMBLED EGGS?
There is too much butter or oil in the pan.

DOES THE BATTER REFUSE TO COAT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN WITH EASE?
The batter is too thick; mix 1 to 2 tablespoons milk or water into the batter.

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[Crêpes, Sweet & Savory Recipes for the Home Cook, Lou Seibert Pappas]