BAKED EGGS IN BRIOCHES 6 small brioches (about 4 by 3 inches) 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 6 large eggs 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or chives Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut off tops of brioches (about 1 inch) and scoop out insides of bottoms to make a shell, leaving 1/4 to 1/3 inch all around and being careful not to tear (cavity should be just big enough to fit a large egg). Brush insides and cut sides of tops with butter.

Arrange brioche shells in a muffin tin and season with salt and pepper. Crack an egg into each brioche and sprinkle with herbs. Bake brioches in lower third of oven 15 minutes. Arrange brioche tops, cut sides up, in a shallow baking pan and put in upper third of oven. Bake both bottoms and tops until eggs are cooked to desired degree of doneness and brioche tops are golden brown, 10 to 20 minutes more.

Serve each brioche with its top for dipping in egg.

Serves 6.

COOKS' NOTE: Serving the eggs with runny - not fully cooked - yolks may be of concern if there is a problem with salmonella in your area.

[Gourmet, February 2000]