PUMPERNICKEL WAFFLES Mashed potatoes in the batter give these waffles a soft, chewy texture. For a delicious brunch, top them with sliced smoked salmon, poached eggs and chives. The waffle batter should be made a day ahead, so plan accordingly. 3 cups whole milk 1/4 cup yellow cornmeal 1/4 cup unsulphured molasses 1/2 ounce unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped 2 teaspoons finely chopped caraway seeds 1 teaspoon salt 3 large egg yolks, lightly beaten 1 tablespoon active dry yeast 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 3/4 cup whole wheat flour 3/4 cup rye flour 1 cup mashed potatoes, at room temperature 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, melted 3 large egg whites 2 tablespoons sugar

In a medium saucepan, warm the milk over moderately high heat until bubbles appear around the edge. Remove from the heat and stir in the cornmeal, molasses, chocolate, caraway seeds and salt. Let the mixture cool completely.

Add the egg yolks and yeast to the batter; stir to dissolve the yeast. Stir in the all-purpose flour. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place for 1 hour. Stir in the whole wheat and rye flours, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

Bring the waffle batter to room temperature. Preheat a lightly oiled 8-inch-square waffle iron. Stir the mashed potatoes and melted butter into the batter. In a stainless-steel bowl, beat the egg whites with the sugar until soft glossy peaks form. With a rubber spatula, fold one-third of the beaten whites into the batter, then fold in the remaining whites.

Pour a scant 1 1/2 cups of the waffle batter into the preheated iron and bake until browned and crisp, about 7 mintes. Transfer the waffles to a platter and cover loosely with foil. Bake the remaining waffle batter; lightly brush the iron with oil between batches if necessary.

Makes 20 four-inch waffles.

MAKE AHEAD: The waffles can be wrapped in plastic and foil and frozen for up to 2 weeks; recrisp them in the oven or the waffle iron.

[Food & Wine, November 2000]