BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH ROASTED GARLIC CRUST The gravy for the tenderloin is made with the cooking liquid from Winter Vegetable Pan-Roast, but veal or beef demiglace can be substituted if you don't plan to make that recipe. Because this tenderloin gets coated with a rub, it's best not to have your butcher tie the meat. 2 large heads garlic, outer skins removed, plus 2 minced garlic cloves 1/2 cup Dijon mustard Two 1/2-inch-thick slices of peasant bread, crusts removed 1/2 cup canola oil One 5-pound trimmed beef tenderloin, at room temperature Salt and freshly ground pepper 1/2 cup dry red wine 2 1/3 cups reserved cooking liquid from Winter Vegetable Pan-Roast (recipe follows), or 2 1/3 cups veal or beef demiglace 2 tablespoons thyme leaves 1 tablespoon flour mixed to a paste with 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Wrap the garlic heads in a double layer of foil and bake for about 1 hour, or until soft. Lower the oven temperature to 350°F.

Peel the roasted garlic. In a small bowl, mash the garlic cloves with a fork and mix in the mustard.

Toast the bread in the oven for 6 to 7 minutes, or until dry. Let cool, then break into pieces and coarsely chop in a food processor. Add the bread crumbs to the garlic and mustard mixture. Raise the oven temperature to 425°F.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy roasting pan set over 2 burners on moderate heat until almost smoking. Season the tenderloin with salt and pepper. Add the tenderloin to the roasting pan and brown well on all sides, about 15 minutes total. Transfer to a platter to cool.

Pour off the fat from the roasting pan. Add the red wine to the pan and bring to a boil over moderately high heat, scraping cup any browned bits from the bottom. Boil the wine until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the wine to the reserved vegetable cooking liquid from the Winter Vegetable Pan-Roast.

Spread the garlic mixture all over the top and sides of the tenderloin. Press the thyme into the garlic mixture. Transfer the tenderloin to the roasting pan and roast for about 25 minutes, or until the crust is browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 125°F for medium rare. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.

Set the roasting pan over 2 burners on moderately high heat. Pour in the vegetable cooking liquid and boil for 2 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. Pour the liquid into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Whisk in the flour paste until smooth and simmer, whisking frequently, until the gravy thickens, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and strain into a warmed gravy boat. Carve the roast into 1/3-inch-thick slices and pass the gravy at the table.

10 servings.

WINTER VEGETABLE PAN-ROAST

4 pounds winter squash, such as buttercup or kabocha - halved lengthwise, seeded and cut into 2-inch-wide wedges
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus 2 tablespoons softened
Salt and freshly ground pepper
8 thyme sprigs
4 large sweet onions, such as Walla Walla, halved lengthwise and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
2 pounds assorted mushrooms, such as shiitake, cremini and Portobello, stems discarded and caps quartered
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Put the squash wedges on a large, rimmed baking sheet and brush all over with 2 tablespoons of the melted butter. Season with salt and pepper and scatter 4 of the thyme sprigs on top. Bake in the upper third of the oven for about 25 minutes, or until just tender. When cool enough to handle, peel the squash and cut the flesh into 1-inch dice. Transfer to a large baking dish.

Meanwhile, in a large roasting pan, toss the onions and mushrooms with the remaining 4 tablespoons of melted butter and the red wine. Season with salt and pepper and top with the remaining 4 thyme sprigs. Cover with foil and bake in the lower third of the oven for about 30 minutes, or until the onions have softened and the mushrooms have released their liquid.

Set a large strainer over a medium bowl and carefully pour in the liquid from the roasting pan; you should have about 1 1/2 cups.

Stir the 2 tablespoons of softened butter into the onions and mushrooms in the roasting pan. Roast uncovered for about 1 hour, or until the onions and mushrooms are very tender and deeply browned around the edges. Add the vegetables to the squash in the baking dish, stir to combine and season with salt and pepper. Cover with foil to keep warm.

Put the roasting pan over 2 burners set on moderately high heat. When the pan starts sizzling, pour in the chicken stock and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom. Boil the stock for 1 minute, then strain it into the onion and mushroom cooking liquid; set the 2 1/3 cups of cooking liquid aside for making the gravy for the beef tenderloin. Serve the vegetables hot.

10 servings.

MAKE AHEAD: The vegetables and their cooking liquid can be refrigerated separately for up to 2 days. Reheat the vegetables, covered, in a 425°F oven.

[Food & Wine, November 2000]