GRILLED MOLASSES AND RUM-GLAZED FRESH HAM In order for the flavor of the rub to really penetrate the meat, we removed the skin and most of the fat from the shank. FOR BRINING HAM 4 quarts water 1 cup sugar 1 cup table salt 30 whole cloves 4 whole nutmegs, cracked 1 (8- to 10-lb) bon-in shank-end fresh ham, skinned and trimmed of all but a thin layer of fat FOR SPICE RUB 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons coriander seeds 4 teaspoons cumin seeds 4 teaspoons whole black peppercorns 4 teaspoons paprika 4 teaspoons kosher salt

FOR GLAZE
1/4 cup dark rum
1/4 cup molasses (preferably mildly flavored)
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter

Bring all brining ingredients except ham to a boil in a deep 8- to 9-quart pot (such as a pasta pot), stirring occasionally until sugar and salt are dissolved. Remove from heat and add ham. (Brine should cover ham; if not, make more brine.) Cool mixture 30 minutes, then chill, covered, turning ham once or twice, at least 1 day and up to 2.

Prepare grill for cooking using enough chimney or a shoe box. When coals are ready, push them to one side of grill, leaving about two thirds of grill without coals. Put a drip pan opposite coals. 

Finely grind all spice-rub ingredients together in an electric coffee/spice grinder. 
Drain ham and pat dry. Rub ground spices all over ham.

Place ham on grill rack, fatty side up, over drip pan. Cover grill, leaving cover vents one-fourth open and bottom vents fully open, and cook ham, adding a large handful of charcoal every 30 minutes. After 1 hour, turn ham around so other side faces coals and continue to cook until a meat thermometer inserted near but not touching bone registers 155°F, 1 to 2 hours more.

Heat glaze ingredients over moderate heat, stirring, until butter is melted. During last 30 minutes or grilling, brush ham with glaze several times, letting excess fall into drip pan.

Transfer cooked ham to a platter and cover loosely with foil. Let ham stand 30 minutes to 1 hour before carving. Serve with pan drippings (skimmed of fat).

Serves 10 to 12.

COOKS' NOTE: Gas grill method: Preheat grill to moderately low. Place ham, fatty side up, in grill on a rack in a large broiler pan. Close lid, then roast about 3 hours.

Oven method: Roast ham, fatty side up, on a rack in a large roasting pan in a preheated 350°F oven, about 3 hours.

MANGO AND RED ONION CHUTNEY

1/4 cup olive oil
2 medium red onions, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/4 cup minced peeled fresh ginger
4 mangoes (3 lb), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup canned unsweetened pineapple juice
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 1/2 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
Coarsely ground black pepper

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté onions, stirring frequently, until softened. Add bell pepper and ginger and sauté, stirring 1 minute.

Stir in mangoes, pineapple juice, vinegar, brown sugar, curry powder, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and coarse pepper, then cool. Serve chutney at room temperature.

Makes about 7 cups.

COOKS' NOTE: Chutney keeps, covered and chilled, 2 weeks.

[Gourmet, October 2000]