LA MAZILLE'S LAMB YOU CAN EAT WITH A SPOON Here are a few of La Mazille's trucs for this dish: To firm up the outside of the leg of lamb and to seal in juices before braising in the oven, lower the meat into boiling water and simmer it for 15 minutes. When you are ready to serve the lamb, spoon the cooked whole garlic cloves out carefully and arrange them on the platter; they resemble almonds, but they're extremely tender. On 6-pound leg of lamb on the bone (see NOTE) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 5 firm heads of garlic, cloves separated and peeled (about 60) 3 tablespoons Cognac 1 1/4 cups sweet wine, such as Orange Muscat Salt and freshly ground pepper

Fill a large enameled cast-iron casserole with 4 quarts of water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Carefully add the lamb and boil for 15 minutes. Drain the lamb and pat dry.

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Heat the oil in the casserole until sizzling. Add the lamb and cook over moderate heat until it is nicely browned on all sides. Pour off any fat in the pan. Add the garlic cloves, then add the Cognac and carefully light it with a long match. When the flames die down, add the wine and season the lamb generously with salt and pepper. Cover with a crumpled sheet of wet parchment paper and a tight-fitting lid. Bake the lamb for 6 hours, turning it halfway through. Remove the casserole from the oven, uncover and let stand for 30 minutes.

Transfer the lamb to a platter. Remove the garlic with a slotted spoon and arrange the cloves around the lamb. If there is a lot of liquid left in the casserole, boil it down until it's very flavorful. Serve the lamb with the cooking juices.

6 servings.

NOTE: Ask the butcher to saw off the protruding shank bone so that the lamb will easily fit into a large casserole.

[Food & Wine, October 2000]