CRISP SLOW-ROASTED DUCK By the time the ducks are done (a process that takes about 6 hours), at least four cups of fat will have been rendered out. It is a delicious fat, and if you are planning to keep it - to sauté potatoes or for some other use - strain it into a glass jar. It will last indefinitely in the refrigerator or the freezer. Two 5 1/2-pound Long Island ducks, wing tips removed Sea salt and freshly ground pepper 6 garlic cloves, chopped 2 medium bunches of thyme

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Rinse the ducks in cold water and pat dry. Cut the fat from the neck and cavity areas and discard; cut off the wing tips. Season the cavities generously with salt and pepper. Stuff the ducks with the garlic and the thyme. Holding a paring knife angled almost parallel to the ducks, pierce the skin all over in dozens of places without cutting into the flesh.

Set the ducks, breast up, on a rack in a large shallow roasting pan. Roast for 1 hour. Remove the rack with the ducks and carefully drain the fat from the roasting pan. Turn the ducks breast down on the rack, and return to the roasting pan; pierce the skins again. Roast for 3 more hours, draining the fat from the pan and turning the ducks every hour.

After 4 hours, turn the oven up to 350°F. Generously season the ducks with salt and pepper and continue roasting for about 1 hour longer, until the skin is very crisp. Remove the ducks from the oven and let them rest for about 20 minutes. Carve the ducks with a sharp knife, arrange the pieces on a warmed platter and serve.

8 servings.

[Food & Wine, November 2000]