SCALLION POTATO PANCAKE AND SMOKED-SALMON SANDWICHES FOR POTATO PANCAKES 2 lb russet (baking) potatoes (about 4 large) 1/2 cup finely chopped scallion greens 5 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter 3/4 lb sliced smoked salmon 1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream MAKE PANCAKES: Preheat oven to 450°F.

Peel potatoes and coarsely grate in a food processor. Stir together potatoes and scallions.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil with 1/2 tablespoon butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides. Scoop 3 (1/4-cup) mounds of potato mixture into skillet, flattening with a spatula to form 3 1/2- to 4-inch pancakes. Reduce heat to moderate and cook, pressing down occasionally on cakes with a metal spatula (to compact cakes and prevent them from breaking when turning), until golden brown and crisp on undersides, 6 to 8 minutes. Turn cakes over carefully and cook, pressing occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, about 8 minutes more. Drain on paper towels, then arrange on a large baking sheet. Make more pancakes in same manner with remaining oil and butter, wiping skillet clean with paper towels between batches.

MAKES SANDWICHES:
Reheat cakes in oven 3 to 5 minutes, or until crisp. Make sandwiches with pancakes, salmon, onion, capers, and crème fraîche.

Serves 4 or 5.

[Gourmet, February 2000]