"CRACKLING" SALMON WITH TRUFFLES This salmon is wrapped in rice paper, which gets very crisp when sautéed. 2 oz fresh or canned black truffles, very thinly sliced 1 (2-lb) center-cut salmon fillet, skinned and cut crosswise into 8 pieces 2 teaspoons fine sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground mixed or black peppercorns 8 (8-inch) rice-paper rounds 8 fresh chives, trimmed to 4 inches 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Truffle oil to taste Reserve 8 of the best looking truffle slices.

Butterfly each salmon piece horizontally with a sharp knife. Arrange 1 layer of truffle slices on bottom halves and replace tops to cover truffles. Sprinkle with sea salt and pepper.

Spread a kitchen towel on a work surface and fill a large bowl with warm water. Soak 1 rice-paper round (make sure there are no holes) in warm water until pliable, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, then transfer to towel. Arrange 1 chive and 1 reserved truffle slice in center of round and top with 1 salmon piece, rounded side down. Fold rice paper over short sides of salmon, then over long sides to enclose salmon, trimming excess with scissors if necessary. (Truffle slice and chive will show through.) Transfer, seam sides down, to a tray and keep covered with plastic wrap. Wrap and cover remaining salmon in same manner.

Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté 4 salmon packages, seam sides up, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn salmon over and reduce heat to moderate. Cook until sides of salmon are firm to the touch, 4 to 6 minutes more, then transfer with a spatula to plates. Cook remaining salmon in same manner.

Lightly brush with some truffle oil.

Serves 8.

COOKS' NOTE: Salmon may be prepared up to the point of wrapping in rice paper 4 hours ahead and chilled, covered tightly with plastic wrap.

[Gourmet, October 2000]