MEAL-IN-A-BOWL NOODLE VEGETABLE HOT POT 6 cups water (if available, use soybean cooking or canning liquid to replace some of the water) 1 carrot, peeled and finely diced 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger 1/2 ounce dried shiitake mushrooms 1 small bunch (about 3/4 pound) kale 3 to 4 ounces rice vermicelli 1 1/2 cups cooked black soybeans or 1 can (15 ounces) organic black soybeans, drained 1/4 cup barley miso plus 2 tablespoons sweet white miso dissolved in 1 cup hot water Chili oil or hot pepper sesame oil, to taste

In a large soup pot, bring the water, carrot, and 1 tablespoon of ginger to a boil. Meanwhile, break off the shiitake stems (or pry them out with a sharp paring knife). Discard the stems or reserve them for stock. Break or chop the shiitake caps into tiny bits. Quickly rinse and drain, and add them to the soup. Press the shiitake down into the water with the back of a large spoon. Cover and cook over medium heat while you prepare the kale, about 5 minutes.

Holding the kale in a bunch, chop off and discard the stems. Slice the kale as thinly as possible. (You should have about 5 cups very tightly packed. If you have more, put it aside for another use.) Rinse well and drain.

Return the soup to a rolling boil. Add the kale and push it under the back of a large spoon. (It will seem like a lot, but will shrink dramatically.) Boil uncovered over medium-high heat until the kale is just short of tender, about 4 minutes. Add the rice vermicelli and soybeans. Press the vermicelli under the liquid and separate the strands. (The pot will seem very crowded at this point!) Continue cooking at a moderate boil, stirring occasionally and pressing the ingredients down into the water, until the vermicelli are tender, about 2 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low and stir in the dissolved miso, the remaining teaspoon of ginger, and chili oil to taste. Use a slotted spoon and a ladle to transfer portions to large, deep bowls. Serve the hot pot with chopsticks and soup spoons.

Serves 4.

NOTE: Angel-hair-thin rice vermicelli are also called rise sticks and bifun. You'll find them in Asian markets and some natural-food stores.

[The New Soy Cookbook, Lorna Sass]