PICKLED ARTICHOKES 2 cups fresh lemon juice 4 cups water 36 to 40 small artichokes 3 lemons, halved 4 cups distilled white vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 cloves garlic 4 fresh or dried bay leaves 1/2 teaspoon dried basil 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 2 to 4 small dried red chili peppers (optional) 2 cups olive oil Combine the lemon juice and water in a non-reactive saucepan large enough to hold the trimmed artichokes eventually. Prepare the artichokes one at a time; Trim the stem end, leaving 1/2 to 1 inch of the stem intact. Halve the artichoke from tip to stem end. Immediately rub the cut surface with a lemon half to prevent discoloring. Scoop our the furry choke, then gently rub the newly exposed surface with lemon. Cut off the outer layers of leaves, so the only leaves remaining are the tender, pale yellow ones. Older or larger artichokes have more tough outer leaves and a more fully developed choke and may need to be trimmed down until only the tender heart remains. Immediately drop the trimmed artichoke into the saucepan filled with lemon water. Repeat this process until all the artichokes have been trimmed. It is no wonder that this is often a family endeavor in the Mediterranean countries!

Bring the lemon water and artichokes to a simmer over medium heat. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, depending upon the size of the artichoke pieces. If mixed sizes are used, remove the small ones after 3 minutes.

Drain the artichoke pieces and pack them tightly into 2 clean, dry pint jars with sealable lids. Add 1 cup of the vinegar and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt to each jar. Cover with the lids and let stand overnight.

The next day, drain off the vinegar and discard. Pour 1 cup fresh vinegar into each jar and cover with the lids. Let the jars stand at room temperature for 4 to 8 hours.

Drain off the vinegar again and add 1 garlic clove, 2 bay leaves, and 1/2 teaspoon each of the basil and oregano and 1 or 2 chili peppers (if using) to each jar. Pour in olive oil to within inch of the rims. Using a damp cloth, wipe the rims clean. Cover with the lids and process for 30 minutes in a hot-water bath.

Remove the jars and let them cool for 12 hours or overnight. Check the lids for a complete seal.

Store the sealed jars in a cool, dark place. The artichokes will keep for up to 1 year. Once opened, keep them refrigerated, but bring to room temperature before using. Store any jar lacking a good seal in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Makes 2 pints.

[The Glass Pantry, Georgeanne Brennan]