MUSHROOM, APPLE, AND POTATO CAKE Cremini mushrooms or their mature form, portobellos - or both - can be used in this side dish from Cory Schreiber's new cookbook, Wildwood: Cooking from the Source in the Pacific Northwest (Ten Speed Press). 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 lb portobello and/or cremini mushrooms, stems discarded and caps chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 Granny Smith or other tart apple 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon salt 3/4 teaspoon black pepper 1 lb yellow-fleshed potatoes such as Yukon Gold

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a 10-inch well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté mushrooms and half of onion, stirring, until mushrooms are tender and browned, 8 to 10 minutes.

Transfer to a bowl and wipe out skillet.

Peel and coarsely grate apple and stir into mushrooms with thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

Preheat oven to 450°F.

Peel potatoes and slice 1/8 inch thick (preferably using a mandoline or other manual slicer). Toss with remaining onion, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in skillet over moderately high heat. Add one third of potato slices in 1 layer, overlapping slightly. Top with half of mushrooms, spreading in an even layer. Repeat layering with half of remaining potatoes, remaining mushrooms, and then remaining potatoes. 

Put skillet in middle of oven and bake 20 minutes.

Invert a pizza pan or round platter over skillet and, holding pan or platter firmly against skillet, flip potato cake onto platter. Carefully slide cake back into skillet and predd layers together with a spatula. Bake until underside is golden and crusty and potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, 8 to 10 minutes more.

Serves 6 (as a side dish).

[Gourmet, October 2000]