CABBAGE BRAISED WITH RIESLING AND SMOKY HAM In this raditional French dish, we have replaced the bacon with smoky ham, which lends a rich flavor with not much fat. Using duck fat in place of the olive oil adds inimitable flavor. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound Spanish onions, chopped 1 bottle (750 ml) Riesling or Gewürztraminer 10 ounces lean smoked ham, sliced 1/3 inch thick 1 tablespoon thyme leaves Pinch of crushed red pepper Two 2-pound heads of Savoy cabbage - halved, cored and coarsely shredded Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, mix the oil with the onions. Cover and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft, about 10 minutes. Add the wine, ham, thyme and crushed red pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the cabbage, cover and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 10 minutes. Cover the cabbage and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 45 minutes. Discard the ham. Season the cabbage with salt and pepper and serve.

8 servings.

MAKE AHEAD: The cabbage can be refrigerated overnight.

[Food & Wine, November 2000]